A taste of the sea - I tried every oyster at NICO
By Katie Hopsicker
A salty breeze blows through the low country. A blue sky brings wind to blow sand around your feet, as waves crash and ring in your ears. As you drive by a salt marsh, pelicans swoop and dive, following the wake of a fishing boat. What could possibly make a day better? Oysters.
When it comes to the culinary arts, I always love a taste-test. And when it comes to seafood, Charleston can’t be beat. Searching for a fun activity combining good seafood, wine, and conversation? Look no further than an oyster taste-test. At NICO, at Shem Creek, my friend and I ordered two of each oyster on the menu and proceeded to rate each one. Here’s the fishy verdict:
don’t taste on an empty stomach
While you don’t want to ruin your appetite, oysters are meant to be savored. We ordered some appetizers to ensure we could enjoy the artful flavor of the main event. I’d recommend the Salmon Tartare, which featured ceviche-like flavors of fresh citrus, and the tender, meaty Lobster Roll. Pair your first course with a Bloody Mary or a specialty cocktail - I tried The Margot, a light and refreshing mixture of Crémant rosé, Lillet Blanc, and bitters.
cleanse your palate
There are fewer pairings finer than seafood, summer, and a refreshing glass of white wine. Have a glass to cleanse your palate, and you’ll be able to clearly taste the richness of the sea with every bite… or slurp. I had a crisp and fresh glass of Oysterman Muscadet, from Maisdon-sur-Sèvre in France. And my friend loved the bubbly Domaine de la Petite Roche, a Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay sparkling mix from Anjou.
order up
Now, NICO does offer a private, two-hour long oyster class taught by Master Chef Nico Romo and Master Shucker Isabella Macbeth, but your other option is to just order one or two of each oyster on the menu! I personally love long meals, curious conversations, and an interactive culinary experience - and a DIY oyster tasting ticked every box.
the contenders
A shell in hand, a squeeze of lemon, and a slurp… the taste of an oyster is like a sophisticated taste of the sea. At NICO, we tried nine varieties of oyster, all from the East Coast and all delicious in different ways. (And to clarify - for competition’s sake - with each oyster I added one drop of vinegar and two drops of lemon juice, and my friend used cocktail sauce to even the playing field.) Here are our contenders:
Single Ladies: From Lady’s Island, SC, this oyster is advertised as having a briny beginning with a sweet finish, and I thought it tasted extremely meaty and chewy.
Low Country Cups: From Ace Basin, SC, these are described as having an “assertive salinity,” and I agree. They tasted so salty, and with an almost citrus finish.
Bekah’s Bay: These oysters are HUGE. And from Morehead City, NC, they definitely have a great taste to go with their size. I thought they were refreshing and reminded me of my childhood summers on Cape Cod.
Orchard Point: From Chesapeake, MD, these oysters are advertised as sweet and creamy, with notes of honeydew. I thought that while they were definitely sweet, they tasted quite fatty and bland.
Chesapeake Wilds: Another Chesapeake oyster, these Chesapeake Wilds are seasonal from Virginia. Similar to the Orchard Points, I thought these tasted plain. Just a bland oyster.
Row 34: These oysters, in my opinion, taste the way that seafood should. Fishy, salty, and fresh, these oysters come from Duxbury, MA.
East Cape: My personal favorite, these come from Prince Edward Island, and are tangy, salty, and bright. To me, the taste of these oysters gives the same vibe as a glass of rose on a sailboat.
Nonesuch Emeralds: From Scarborough, ME, these taste just like a classic oyster. Nothing crazy, and nothing to write home about.
Lanes Island: The final oyster, from Maine, was the perfect bite to end on. The taste was super refreshing, like a glass of lemon water on a summer’s day, and overall, it was smooth like a fine bourbon.
the results
Between my friend and I, we came up with three favorite oysters, based on taste, popularity, and our gut reaction. In first place was Row 34, followed by East Cape and Low Country Cups. Also in the notable top five were Lanes Island and Bekah’s Bay. While these ratings only came from two amateur oyster tasters, it’s fun to see how your taste buds compare with the popular vote (which our bartender later confirmed - we liked the classics). But while there can never truly be just one winner, I must comment on the freshness and richness in every shell.
the expert opinion
Our server (shoutout Brendan) was truly an expert. If you taste test oysters, be sure to ask questions about the taste or any restaurant specialities. We learned that oysters from the Chesapeake Bay or Gulf Coast area tend to taste less salty and more bland, thanks to the lower frequency of waves and therefore, salt. Additionally NICO refrains from cutting the oyster’s muscle connecter. Once the muscle is cut, the oyster begins to die immediately, so waiting to cut it only optimizes the oyster’s freshness.
While my taste-testing experience at NICO was divine, there are countless oyster restaurants in Charleston. Try one out for yourself as you #ExploreCharleston!